Until you can guide and dither, “walking noise” will be your worst enemy.
#Magic lantern canon 450d iso
Shoot at ISO 1600 for most nebulae and galaxies, drop to 800 if you need to preserve star color.
Use the live view to zoom in on a bright star to focus/align, then move to your target. Take a minimum of 20 frames each of lights, darks etc. Use a delay between frames to allow the sensor to cool down a bit or to allow LENR. Allow time for long exposure noise reduction (LENR, each shot) if you don’t want to be bothered with darks. This is a noisy camera and it demands calibration frames. Here’s some things to consider re the 450Dīe sure to take darks. Disadvantage of the 2" delay is that you'll need to defeat the blinding red-eye light with something like a piece of black electrical tape. Then set intervalometer to expose 2" longer than the desired exposure (accounting for the delay) and the interval between shots (on cool nights usually to something like 5") which seems to help combat temp rise. to BULB and set a 2" shutter delay, to remove shake. Intervalometer fixes those 3 issues: I set the camera exp. No way to delay for cooldown between subs. No support for mirror lockup (as far as I can tell) so camera shake can be an issue This is easily the cheapest and least-fuss way to do it (especially if you already have one, as I did) and I still do it that way sometimes, but: With camera in continuous mode, it will shoot as many 30" (or shorter) subs for as long as you want, till you return and unlock the button. (BackyardEOS also, but less often because my computer doesn't do well outdoors.)īefore I settled on those, I got my start in AP by using a wired shutter release (for like $5 on Ebay) which has a button you can lock down. Intervalometer is what I use most often with my Canon.
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